09 Ski-Doo MXZ Renegade X 800R
This page is dedicated to the Mad Scientist Rich Daly of Dyno Port, for helping me to get my project MXZ 800R to turn over 163 hp, yes!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Rich
Shim both Needles & Change Jets from 480 to 490
Changing the jets.
Removing and replacing the jets are pretty straight forward once you get to your carbs, and remove the bottom bowl cover. I went up 1 size higher from stock to fatten up the fuel delivery.
All you do is remove the old jet, one per carb, and replace them with the recommended jet for your set up.
Shimming the needles.
Shimming your needles will give you crisper throttle response.
Remove your top cover from both carbs so you can get access to your needles. There is a locking mechanism that needs to be loosened before you can remove the needles.
Loosen that up with the correct size allen wrench, slide it back, and carefully remove your needles.
Install your shim directly below the oem clip, and replace the needles. Remember to slide the locking clip over the top of the needles and tighten.
Note: Shim your needle to the recommendations for your motors set up.
Tech: My Shims are .015"
Fatter jets allow you to run wide open with out fear of running too lean.
Note: This set up in adjusted for my mods only and may differ with your set up.
Please contact Rich Daly for advice on how to properly set up your sled.
Chuckaroo Motorsports Trail Head
OEM Head & Chuckaroo Head Comparison.
Note: You will have to remove the stock water inlet tube, the knock sensor, and the carb water inlet from the oem head and transfer them to the Chuckaroo head.
Tech: The trail domes are 12.9 compression ratio.
Transferring the oem hardware to the Chuckaroo Head.
Note: The Chuckaroo head that we have does not have a place for an o-ring for your coolant block like the oem head does. Also our holes on the Chuckaroo head were too short to accept the oem bolts for the water inlet block cover, so Dave (U.P. Cycle & Sport pictured above) had to cut a couple of bolts shorter to work. You also have to use sealant to act as a gasket when you install the cover, or you will have some leaks.
The picture to the right side shows the Chuckaroo head ready to be installed.
Installed Chuckaroo Head.
Note: When installing the head, use the standard Ski-Doo Torque values with a criss cross pattern to tighten down your head bolts. Also make sure you tighten down all bolts in steps as you torque down the head.
Picture above shows the head installed, with all the hoses, and hardware hooked up. Now for the rest of the goodies.
Note: Ski-Doo recommends 21 foot pounds torque for the head bolts.
4HP Mid Range.
800R Rev XP/Summit 07 800R / 08-09 Big Flow Y-Pipe CERAMIC
800R Rev XP/Summit 07 800R / 08-09 Big Flow Y-Pipe CERAMIC
Note: The oem Y-Pipe is best removed with a long 5mm allen wrench with the hex head.
Remove your oem y-pipe, and install the Dynp Port Y-Pipe, but remember to install the exhaust gaskets too. I opted for new exhaust gaskets because the old ones were to hard to remove from the oem y-pipe.
Torque down your y-pipe bolts to the Ski-Doo recommended 150 inch pounds.
2HP Hot Run.
3HP Cold Run.
800 Rev XP 2008-09 Big Volume Pipe CERAMIC #S2531
Note: We use C&T Powersports exhaust spring puller tools to remove, and replace our exhaust springs on our sleds.
Install the old donut gasket on the end of the y-pipe and then put your pipe in place, followed by installing the exhaust springs.
3HP Hot Run.
4HP Cold Run.
800 Rev XP/Summit 2008-09 Can Silencer CERAMIC (Trail) #S2527
Note: Remember to slip the old donut gasket on the end of the pipe before you install the canister.
The Dyno Port Can fits perfect, even better then the factory can.
Re-install your springs and you are ready to listen your sled run.
Tech: With porting & bored carbs I can make 176 hp on pump gas & 186 hp on race gas.
Fits like factory pieces.
Ceramic coating looks and works great.
Noise levels are almost the same as stock decibels.
Best bang for my buck, with the best horse power gains.
You can change the Trail Domes to Hi Compression Domes for more hp if needed.
When I decided to build my sled I checked around and found that Rich Daly of Dyno Port was getting some really good horse power numbers out of relatively stock sled engines. This motivated me to ask Rich the Mad scientist to help me with my project build. I like the way you can set down and chat with Rich and he gives you the straight skinny on how to make your engine run better. I followed his advice and gathered up the parts needed to transform my sled in to as close as possible to his hill climb sled. I am getting roughly 163 crank horse power with the way my sleds engine is set up right now, and I can't see anything wrong with those numbers. The build went smoothly and all his parts fit perfectly.
Rich also supplied me with the Chuckaroo Trail Head, so if you want the skinny on this head, you need to give Rich a call. Dave Rock from U.P. Cycle & Sport of Iron Mountain worked with me to change over the stock parts from the oem head and install them on the Chuckaroo head. We had to use a little "goop" to seal the water coolant plate at the bottom of the head, and also shorten some bolts up to fit properly. The reason we had to goop the retainer plate is because the Chuckaroo head does not have a o-ring like the oem head. After running the motor there were no leaks, so this is not an issue. The knock sensor and the carb coolant connector went together with out a hitch.
Why did I choose Ceramic Coated Pipes over the Standard Black painted Pipes? I chose the ceramic coated pipes for their looks and performance gains over stock components.
The benefit of the ceramic is that it will hold heat in your pipe longer keeping more crisper throttle response, with less bogging and better acceleration.
Remember that a hot pipe is a happy pipe, and your sled will be running at optimum performance. Installing the y-pipe, expansion pipe, and the canister was a breeze and they went together just as easy as installing oem parts.
While I was at it Rich convinced me that me being Canadian, and I drive like one too, he suggested that we shim the needles and go up a couple of sizes on the jets. This is an effort in patience to remove the carbs and to install these items, but with patience you can acomplish a lot. I had to remove the carbs anyway because we were also installing V-Force 3 reeds, which absolutely make this machine rock!
Most of the work that I done could be done in your garage at home if you have the competence and the proper tools. I would suggest getting a good mechanic to install your head. This is something that you need to do right, and do it right the first time, or you have wasted a bunch of money if you warp your head. Jetting the carbs and shimming the needles is something we do on the atv's all the time, but the same goes for doing this too. If you are not familiar with this type of work seek help from your authorized mechanic. The sled was running a little lean stock, so this should fatten the carbs up some, and give me some peace of mind on long wide open runs across the lake.
I took my time doing the work on this sled because we do not have snow yet and I was in no hurry to make any mistakes. The build went off the way we had planned and on initial start up, everything worked great. The motor sounds just like any stock machine and I am biting at the bit to hit the trails. I have added purple ice to my coolant system, and with the larger coolant area of the Chuckaroo heads I am very impressed at how cool my engine runs. When I started it up I left it run in my driveway for 5 minutes and the temperature was about 50 degrees Fahrenheit that day. The highest the temperature gauge read then was 4 bars, and I can tell you I was impressed.
So, the bottom line is, if you want good reliable trail horsepower, then you need to give the Mad Scientist, Rich Daly a call and see what he recommends for your sled. You will be glad you did, I know I am, Thanks Rich!